Sacred Steps: Walking the Camino Portugues 2019

And so I begin.  Today I depart upon the Camino de Santiago from Vila Nova de Cerviera, Portugal.

​​Like my hometown, Vila Nova de Cerveira is a lovely small town overlooking a river. A single bridge separates Portugal from Spain. I journey down the hill from my room to the church just as I did weekly as a boy to take my place on a path both physical and spiritual. I am simultaneously away and remarkably at home.

So it is from this familiar place that I begin my own pilgrimage; one step followed by another and another and another for 100 miles. I carry a few basics within and a shell upon my pack, leaving with all that I am to seek all that I may find.

A very tough but rewarding day on my Camino, as I crossed over from Portugal into Spain. I need to take (a lot) of time to unfold my emotions, but a few of the day’s notable highlights include hobblestones (perfect word for a centuries-old phenomenon), laying a shell at the cross of San Telmo, and walking the original Roman Road – Via Romana XIX.

DAY 3:  Porrino to Redondola, Spain – 16.5 KM

Today was a shorter day – as planned – and much needed due to a stone bruise. No shot at resting it; just tape up and go. 90% of today’s path was on concrete with an 800m increase in elevation followed by a 900m sharp descent on asphalt. Not a good day for the stone bruise! I slalomed down the hills much to the chagrin of a few pilgrims behind me. But all of the concrete was a reminder to enjoy nature!

I’ve met some wonderful pilgrims along the Way. Today I shared lunch with a lovely couple from Canada. I’ve met a father and his two daughters from Texas, an interesting couple from Brazil and many, many Europeans. Invariably our conversations lead to one question: “Why are you walking the Camino?” It is a question that unites diverse people and languages along The Way.

And while my **need** to walk the Camino is very clear, my reason – the why – is less so. I can see a glimpse of my answer at the top of the next hill; its shadow just past the fog on the river; its muffled voice competing with the toll of the bell and sounds of the world and of life itself. Maybe I am seeking it; maybe it is seeking me. For now, I have found comfort in my own lack of clarity.

I hope you find a reason to notice something beautiful today. Buen Camino!

DAY 4:  Redondola to Pontevedra, Spain – 20.4 KM

“Why are you walking the Camino de Santiago?” It is a question that unites diverse people and languages along The Way.

​​And while the need to walk the Camino is very clear to me, the reason – the why – is less so. I can see a glimpse of my answer at the top of the next hill; its voice competing with the toll of the bell and sounds of the world and of life itself. Whatever it is, I have found comfort in my own lack of clarity, knowing that I will recognize it in due time.

Until then, I walk.

DAY 5:  Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis, Spain – 21.8 KM

What a day from Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis. It was the day I “feared” – middle of the trek, long and hot, easy to get distracted and make a mistake or – worse yet – hurt yourself. But my fears were once again just something I carried like the weight in my pack – it was a great day.

The highlight was walking through a field and approaching a group of stopped pilgrims. I was tired, the bruises on my foot were almost unbearable. I was pushing on but lamenting how far I had left to go – a tired and hurting pilgrim was I. As I approached, they moved to either side of the trail. As I went through, they started clapping and high-fiving me, saying, “Buen Camino. We are so proud of you!” And I just lost it right there. Tears fell as I walked, high-five and eventually began hugging these pilgrims. I will never be able to thank them for showing me the spirit of pilgrimage but I know that I will never forget this moment.

Regardless of where you are, how you feel, what doubt or burdens you carry – you are never alone. Whatever you are doing, someone is cheering for you. And whatever pains you endure, they are meaningless when measured against your achievement.

Buen Camino!

DAY 6:  Caldas de Reis to Munios, Spain – 25.1 KM

Today’s trek took me from Caldas de Reis to Padron, one of the most significant places in Jacobean history. It was from Padron that St. James began his ministry in Spain and also where his body was returned following his martyrdom.

​​For me, this was my longest day of my Camino and – luckily – the hottest. I spent much of the day walking alone to reflect. A few hours into the morning, I found a quiet spot beneath a tree to have my apple. It was not particularly impressive or photo-worthy – it was a moment that would be hard to justify to someone else; to explain why, out of all the things I could have done and all the places I could have chosen to be, I had chosen to be there. But the truth is that beneath that tree, I was doing more than ‘seeing’ Portugal, or Spain, or the Camino de Santiago. I was a part of them, the way countless pilgrims before me had been for centuries.

Tomorrow, my Camino takes me to Santiago. It is said that those who make the pilgrimage may make one prayer directly to God in Santiago’s hallowed Cathedral. And with the benefit of time and reflection, I think this is why I have come to walk the Camino.

​​So tomorrow – Santiago. Buen Camino!

DAY 7:  Munios to Santiago de Compostela, Spain – 21.6 KM

Today I arrived in Santiago de Compostela exhausted both physically and emotionally by my Camino. But as I entered the Praza and stood before the Cathedral all of that struggle was lifted away. My family was there to welcome me and support me as they have the entire Way. I kissed Jack and he said, “We want you to go have your moment, Dad.”

I walked to the center of the square, looked up and began crying – pouring out the pains, the fears, the excitement and the sense of completion this journey has given me.

I began my Camino a week ago uncertain. I arrived today as a pilgrim. It is renewing to see so many pilgrims come together in Santiago and they are easy to recognize: they limp and hobble, bandages hiding great pains and they have the biggest smiles, the warmest greetings, and a light in their eyes for everyone. I take great pride in walking the Camino, but that was not what called me to this place. I have met wonderful people along the Way; that was not what called me. I have laughed and cried and leave richer than when I began; that was not my reason.

What I came to know this week is that the reason for my Camino is to offer one prayer of thanks. Eleven years ago aboard a medivac helicopter, I prayed for God to spare my life. Since then, I have been blessed with a richness of experiences: I’ve traveled the world. I’ve met my son. I’ve spent eleven more years growing in love with my wife. I’ve met wonderful friends. Many more gifts than I can count. And I have tried to pay back these “bonus years” in service and spirit but all of it has fallen short.

This past week, I have given my body and soul to the Camino to become a true pilgrim. I have chosen this path of struggle and sacrifice for this day. As I enter the Cathedral and pray I do so humbly and earnestly in hopes that my prayer of thanksgiving may be heard in this venerated place.

Lord, may the shell which I bring to this place be a sign of pilgrimage to Santiago. When I reach my final judgment, pour out my heart and tip the balance of my life in favor of my good deeds. Please forgive my sins and help me to better carry my burdens in life. Amen.